Replacing a bathtub-only faucet with a tub-and-shower setup (or converting a tub to include a shower) involves adding a diverter, installing a shower riser and head, and ensuring the valve is compatible. The exact steps depend on whether you’re upgrading trim only or modifying in-wall plumbing.
Existing valve type
If it’s already a tub/shower mixing valve, you may only need new trim and a shower riser.
If it’s tub-only, you’ll likely need to replace the valve.
Wall access
Access from behind the wall (closet, access panel) makes the job much easier.
Local plumbing codes
Many areas require pressure-balance or thermostatic valves for showers.
Adjustable wrench, pipe wrench
Screwdrivers, Allen key
Pipe cutter (for copper/steel) or PEX tools
Teflon tape, plumber’s grease
Silicone sealant
Shower riser pipe and shower arm
Shower head
Tub spout with diverter (if applicable)
New tub/shower valve (if required)
Turn off the main supply or local shutoffs.
Open the faucet to relieve pressure.
Remove the existing spout.
Install a diverter tub spout (pull-up or push-button type).
Use Teflon tape on threaded connections.
Remove the valve trim.
Confirm there’s a capped top outlet on the valve.
Install a vertical riser pipe from the valve to the shower arm outlet.
Thread in the shower arm.
Attach the shower head and tighten gently.
Restore water.
Test tub flow and divert to shower.
Check for leaks.
Turn off water and drain lines.
Open the wall behind the tub (preferred) or from the front if necessary.
Disconnect hot and cold supplies.
Remove the old valve body.
Mount a pressure-balance or thermostatic valve.
Connect hot (left) and cold (right).
Connect bottom outlet to the tub spout.
Connect top outlet to the shower riser.
Set correct rough-in depth for finished wall thickness.
Cap outlets.
Turn water on and check all joints.
Waterproof as required.
Patch and finish the wall surface.
Install valve trim.
Install diverter tub spout.
Install shower arm and head.
Verify smooth temperature control.
Test diverter operation and flow.
Check for leaks.
| Mistake | Why It’s a Problem |
|---|---|
| Using a tub-only valve | No safe shower temperature control |
| Skipping pressure-balance | Risk of scalding |
| Wrong rough-in depth | Trim won’t sit flush |
| No wall waterproofing | Hidden water damage |
| Overtightening fittings | Thread or seal damage |
If opening the wall isn’t possible:
Use a tub Spout Diverter + exposed riser kit designed for retrofit.
These mount externally and avoid wall demolition, but aesthetics are more utilitarian.
To replace a bathtub faucet with a shower:
If a tub/shower valve already exists: add a diverter spout, riser, and shower head.
If it’s tub-only: replace the valve with a code-compliant tub/shower mixing valve, add a riser, then install shower trim.
Planning, correct valve selection, and proper rough-in depth are critical for a safe, leak-free result.